Câmara de Lobos

The place

Painted boats pulled up on a pebble bay, still an actual fishing village rather than a reconstruction of one. This is where the black scabbard fish comes ashore, and where poncha was invented — drunk in tiny bars around the harbour.

When to come

Late afternoon, when the boats are in and the bars fill up.

Worth knowing

• Parking in the centre is difficult; use the terraces above
• Poncha here is made with a wooden muddler and no apology
• Ten minutes from Funchal but a completely different pace
• Praça da Autonomia (Largo de São Sebastião) is the harbourfront square to head for
• 15 minutes west of Funchal by car, or bus route 7 / 96
• Combine with Cabo Girão, a 10-minute drive further west
• Weekday mornings are quietest; weekends draw day-trippers