Funchal

The place

Built up an amphitheatre of hills, so almost every street has a sea view and a gradient. Mercado dos Lavradores for fruit and fish, the old town for painted doors, a cable car to Monte, and wicker toboggans driven downhill by men in straw hats.

When to come

Any morning without three cruise ships in port — the difference in the old town is dramatic.

Worth knowing

• Underground garages beat street parking; the centre is dense and steep
• Cruise schedule is public and worth checking before a market visit
• Cable car to Monte, then toboggan or bus back down
• Tap water is fine to drink